Symptoms

• No loud clunk when unlocking the device and pumps would not turn on
• No faint click after unlocking device
• Nothing happens after unlocking device
• Unlocking via keypad does not work but does when using bypass switches

Possible Causes

• Faulty keypad
• Loose pins/connectors on the keypad
• Faulty contactor
• Loose connectors / screws on the contactors
• Frozen contactor (possible in extreme cold)
• Faulty relay
• Faulty motherboard

Troubleshooting

Confirm Keypad is Working Properly

Are inputs being accepted when keys are pressed?

• If not, keypad issue is possible

Do a visual inspection of keypad and board

Check pins and ensure they are all fully connected

Check the four screws holding the board in place and ensure they are tight

• Try gently pushing the motherboard in to make sure everything is fully in place

If keypad is still not working, it may need to be replaced. Please contact your Dealer for further information.

If the keypad is confirmed working, proceed with next steps,.

Test Bypass Switches

Is the contactor engaging (being pushed down)?

• If yes, this means the contactor is working and issue may be with the relay switch on the motherboard

Note that the two contactors are separate and an issue on one may not necessarily be occurring for the other. If one of the contactors is not working, try switching to the other one.

Relay Troubleshooting

Test the bypass switch if there is no faint clicking sound heard when engaging the device through the keypad

• If bypass switch works, the issue may be on the board side, specifically the relay (failed or faulty)
• Enable the second power supply on the Fuel Lock app and move power wiring from pump out of Power Supply 1 in Fuel Lock device to Power Supply 2 terminals
• Run a sync for Power Supply 2 settings to take effect and then run a test on PS2 from the keypad and ensure contactor is engaging. See video for guide on how to Manage Devices

Check the relay terminals

Multimeter required. This test needs to be done while the issue is occurring, and device has to be in an unlocked state

• Using a multimeter, test the relay terminals
  • If there is 0VAC, the problem is likely on the motherboard
  • If there is 24VAC, the problem is likely the contactor

Check Fuses on F2 and F3

When the device is unlocked (enter PIN, EID, unlock), is there a faint clicking sound (not a loud clunk)?

If the fuses are good, continue with troubleshooting below.

Check the Contactors

Check the screws and connectors on top of it

• The screws holding the contactor(s) in place may need to be loosened and the contactor pulled out to allow for this work to happen
• In some rare cases the screws at the top of the contactor may be a half turn loose and may just need tightening
• The brown or red connectors (depending on which contactor) may also be loose and could be pushed down to allow for full contact

A multimeter is required to perform some of the troubleshooting steps below. If you are not comfortable performing the tests yourself, we strongly advise to contact an electrician.

• When the contactor is unlocked (the coil is pushed in), it should give 120V (or 240V depending on the kind of pump being used)
• When the device/contactor is locked, it should be 0V
• If the loud clunk is heard and there is 120V flowing, it can be safely assumed that the terminals are getting the correct voltage and there is likely a pump malfunction or a wiring issue instead